Wiring new switches on your Cafe Racer, Scrambler or Bobber project.
A quick no BS guide to installing your new handlebar switches from Purpose Built Moto. Below details the installation process for our Contour switch block design. These can be used with either a push button or toggle switch depending on your application.
Materials/Tools needed for installation:
- Push buttons or toggle switch (not supplied)
- M4 coarse thread tap
- 3mm drill bit
- 5mm or 10mm drill bit (dependant on switch type)
- Sharpie Marker
- Electric Drill
- 3mm Allen Key
- Thread locker
- Install throttle, Hand Grips, Clutch and Front brake perch. Allow enough space for your Purpose Built Moto Contour Switch Block to fit, and be used comfortably.
- Invert your Purpose Built Moto Contour Switch Block as shown and mark holes.
- Centre punch marked holes and drill 3mm in the center, and 7.5mm or 10mm depending on switch type to the outer. Taking care to be 90◦ to the face being drilled
- Use the M4 Tap to carefully thread the centre hole. Swarf can be cleared with the use of compressed air.
- It is recommended that the soldering of your switches be done prior to installation of the wiring, using a low heat soldering iron and holding the pushbutton/toggle switch in a vice. Too much heat can cause damage to the switch internals and limit switch life.
- After soldering is complete use heat shrink sleeve on all terminals to protect from ground shorts.
- Fit push button/toggle switches to switchblock and run wiring internally through the handlebar.
- Use a small amount of thread locker while securing switch, with some silicone or marine adhesive spread around the switch base to seal the cable holes. No more than 4.5Nm is to be used when fastening switch block.
- Enjoy your clean new set up and be sure to send us a photo of your build on Instagram or Facebook!
You can download this guide as a PDF HERE
Thanks for your support and ride safe.
What about cables? Do you pull them through handlebars?
Those grips are sick.
Hey Adam, Yes mate the cables are all run internally, nice and tidy
Could small holes be drilled in the bottom of the risers for the cables to come out underneath the triple for a cleaner look? or would that compromise the strength of the risers?
Yes thats a route you could take, dependant on your triple clamp set up.
I’d just keep the size to a minimum, I couldnt comment on the strength compromise.